Any seasoned imbiber knows that the quality of a drinking experience is far more than the sum of its parts. After all, a great wine is not merely great because it drinks finely. It’s great because of the atmosphere in which it’s enjoyed—in an exquisite locale, perhaps, or alongside cherished friends. Key, too, is the story behind the bottle: who made it and how, why and when. Knowing these things in no way chemically alters what’s in the glass, but it certainly has the power to alter one’s perception of it. The mind, after all, is a taster’s most important tool.
These were the things we asked Wine Enthusiast’s team of editors and contributors to consider when we asked them to name the bottles they found most notable in 2023. In this list are exquisite wines drunk in unlikely places (including, for example, alongside a highway in France) and made through unusual means (say, aged at the bottom of the sea). There are also limited-release spirits, including one that matured in the constantly-rocking hull of a schooner and an eau de vie whose maker’s attention to detail borders on obsessiveness.
Do these bottles have the power to inspire you? Perhaps, once reading these stories, they will.
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2018 Adrien Renoir ‘Les Montants’ Verzy Grand Cru
“Earlier this year as I traveled through France, I hitched a ride with wine pals en route to ProWein in Dusseldorf since all of France was on strike. We turned what would have been an uneventful car ride into a fun picnic party. We stopped somewhere along the autobahn in Belgium, found ourselves a picnic table next to a mammoth 18-wheeler and created our chic haven, complete with real wine glasses. We unpacked artisanal meats and cheeses and, of course, I brought Champagne. A bottle of 2018 Adrien Renoir “Les Montants” Verzy Grand Cru, in fact. It was divine! Paired with laughter and friendship in the most unassuming place in the world, we felt like kings and queens.” —Anna-Christina Cabrales, Tasting Director
2019 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé
“At the 25th-anniversary dinner for Pangea in Monterrey, Mexico, sommelier Priscila Frausto paired 2019 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé with a giant clam dressed with miso butter, pickled sunchoke and minced cow’s feet. It was a perfect example of a wine pairing that simultaneously complements and contrasts. The wine’s density, subtle meatiness and almost saline minerality merged with the dish’s savory richness, but bright summer fruit and floral aromas cut through it like a shady picnic on a hot day.” —Nils Bernstein, Contributing Editor
The Carboniste 2021 Extra Brut Albariño
“I was introduced to sparkling Albariño at Friendsgiving and it may be my go-to for the foreseeable future. My dear friend Jen brought it to my attention, and I’ve never seen her glass filled with anything besides Prosecco for the last 12 years. She likes her bubbles! The sparkling Carboniste 2021 Extra Brut Albariño was perfect for catching up before dinner. I poured myself a second glass to go with my carnitas and chicharrón tacos. Thanksgiving bliss.” —Bonnary Lek, Director of Public Relations
Navazos Palazzi Vermut Rojo
“One of my favorite sips this year was Navazos Palazzi Vermut Rojo, a Spanish red vermouth. It’s a collab between Sherry negociant Equipo Navazos and Nicolas Palazzi of importer PM spirits. It’s made with a base of oloroso Sherry, so it’s deeper and richer than most red vermouths, but enlivened with touches of bitter orange and savory spice. I enjoyed it in Manhattans (it plays nicely with rye whiskey) as well as poured over ice. I see why Spain is a fan of ‘la hora del vermut’ (the vermouth hour).” —Kara Newman, Writer at Large
Spirit Labs North River Rye Whiskey: Apollonia Edition
“From Spirits Labs, an adventurous distillery in Newburgh, New York, this limited release (look for it again next year) is distilled from all New York State grain (95% rye and 5% malted barley), then aged in three-wood barrels. (They’re made from oak staves with one head cherry and the other sugar maple, all New York grown). Aged five years and finished in the hull of the Schooner Apollonia, which sails along the Hudson River, it packs a punch at 100 proof that you’d never notice amid all the oak and spice taming it. I discovered it at Harvest Moon Farm and Orchard one weekend after we’d finished the Water Issue of Wine Enthusiast, where Kara Newman had written about the Apollonia. I knew right away I had to try it.” —John Capone, Print Managing Editor
Wine of the Sea Amarone
“After reporting for years on an underwater wine project in Santa Barbara that turned out to be illegal, I was excited to try the first bottles of wine aged under the sea that are legally for sale in the United States. A partnership between a Croatian shellfish farmer and Wisconsin importer, Wine of the Sea is subjecting numerous wines to various lengths of time under the Adriatic Sea. It’s hard to know the true effects without a direct comparison to above-ground bottlings, but the two wines I tried—a 2018 Amarone and 2017 Soave, both by Italy’s Villa Canestri—were certainly smooth.” —Matt Kettmann, Writer at Large
Clos Henri “CLAY” 2020
“A wine that blew my socks off this year was a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. In fact, it was the highest-scoring New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in Wine Enthusiast history (by a long shot). At 98 points, the 2020 ‘Clay’ is a new release from biodynamic champions Clos Henri, whose 20th-anniversary re-brand elevated the already delicious range of wines to another level. For me, ‘Clay’ showed complexity, poise and transparency rarely seen from this bombastic, world-famous style. Its sister wine, ‘Stones,’ is very nearly as good. The Savvy B quality bar has been raised.” —Christina Pickard, Writer at Large
Domaine Nico Le Paradis Pinot Noir 2016
“Pinot Noir has found unique expressions around the globe, and Domaine Nico Le Paradis Pinot Noir is no exception. Not only does this wine showcase its origin in Gualtallary, Uco Valley, but it also exhibits the precision and technique of the team behind it. An elegant Pinot, with depth and notes of cranberries, thyme and mushrooms on an energized and silky palate. This wine will dispel any doubts you may have about the potential of cool climate grape varieties in Argentina.” —Jesica Vargas, Writer at Large
Capreolus Raspberry Eau de Vie 2019
“Barney Wilczak, the proprietor of the U.K.–based Capreolus Distillery, uses 30 kilograms of perfectly ripe and healthy raspberries to produce only one liter of the Raspberry Eau de Vie. His quest for the highest–quality product can be described as obsessive. However, it allows him to capture and preserve the essence of each fruit so precisely. The raspberry stands out, with its complexity, length and incredible purity.” —Aleks Zecevic, Writer at Large
2016 Quady North Layne Vineyard Merlot
“The 2016 Quady North Layne Vineyard Merlot is a powerful memory for me. It wasn’t the best wine I tried all year, but it is excellent. I drank a glass before writing an obituary for the man who grew the vines. Roger Layne was a southern Oregon winegrowing pioneer, and the wine Herb Quady made from his Merlot grapes does Roger’s legacy justice. Drinking this wine made me feel like I knew Roger.” —Michael Alberty, Writer at Large
The post The Most Memorable Bottles We Drank in 2023 appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.
