Anchor Brewing Company Might Be Gone but the Legacy of its ‘Steam’ Beer Lives On

Last year, the venerable Anchor Brewing Company of San Francisco announced it would be closing its doors after 127 years in business. The brewery had several owners over the decades including Sapporo, the Japanese company that bought Anchor in 2017 and initiated the shutdown. There was a sadness among beer fans who had come to see the brewery’s flagship Steam Beer on the same iconic level as Rice-A-Roni and the Golden Gate Bridge. The beer’s loss will be felt and its signature style is in a kind of limbo.

Anchor Brewing still owns the trademark on “Steam Beer,” but similar beers have been brewed over the years by other brewers who call it by its official style name: California Common.

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The style has never been widely popular, often lost in the shadow of India pale ales, but well-done versions have a nostalgic charm and are often a good pairing to pub dishes. The beer is fermented at ale temperatures with a lager yeast, giving it a slightly fruity flavor. The malt bill should have pleasing caramel and toast flavors, and the hops rooted in the Old World, with earthy, grassy and herbal flavors.

Brewers will often release a California Common as a small batch or limited-edition run. Last year, Connecticut’s Black Pond Brews was one of a handful of breweries nationwide that released a collaboration with the Anchor SF Cooperative, a group of former employees who banned together hoping to buy the brand. Proceeds from that beer, Connecticut Uncommon, were donated to the co-op’s acquisition efforts.

Some breweries offer California Common regularly, which is especially handy for those who need that Anchor fix.

Full Steam Ahead: Try These

Promised Land (Tree House Brewing Company, Massachusetts); 5.5% abv. Sweet malt with bits of toasted bread, this vibrant deep golden beer leans into the herbal hops without overwhelming the palate. Overall, refreshing with touches of fruitiness, this pairs well with chowder, or sourdough bread.

War Bond (Mare Island Brewing Co., California); 5.2%. Soft and nutty with a light spun sugar flavor, this copper-colored ale brings earthy, Old World hops to the palate by the third sip. A pub beer made for long afternoons in solitude.

Every Once in a While (Grist House Craft Brewery, Pennsylvania); 4.9%. This amber-colored lager has a herbal hop flavor with a cooked sugar malt character. Combined, it is slightly tangy but sweet and earthy. It offers intriguing sips that would pair well with a hearty sandwich.

California Common (Institution Ale Co., California); 5.5% abv. The brewery calls this an “Amber hybrid ale,” which is an apt description for the overall style. Indeed, it pours amber and offers a slightly fruity and vaguely woody and nutty flavor sip after sip. Threads of herbal mint and pine tree weave through the glass.

Jewel City Common (Brewyard Beer Company, California); 6.3%. Pouring a light amber, this packs a higher abv punch than most, which adds some body and warmth to the caramel toast malt body. Accented by woody pine hops and a bit of earthiness, this is a fine companion to fried seafood dinners.

This article originally appeared in the April 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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