Going to Extremes With Tara
and Ventisquero Wines

When wine producer Ventisquero was founded 25 years ago, the goal was to always push boundaries in Chile. The South American nation, with its numerous zones and climates, was a viticultural wonderland just waiting to be discovered. In 2007, Ventisquero ventured to a part of the country where no winemaker had ever gone before: the Atacama Desert, which is known as the driest desert in the world. Here, they created Tara, a line of terroir-expressive wines that reflect one of the most unique grape-growing climates in all of Chile.

The Atacama Desert lies in the northern half of Chile. It stretches approximately 700 miles from north to south, and from west to east is bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the Andes mountains. For the Tara project, the Ventisquero team identified a site located 13 miles from the sea.

The land surprised them in many ways. Every day, a thick blanket of fog rolls in from the Pacific. Called “Camanchaca,” it passes through the desert on its way inland, bringing with it cold temperatures that last well throughout the morning. However, daytime highs reach only about 75 degrees Fahrenheit—far more moderate than the expected 100-degree days. “This is a cool-climate desert,” says winemaker Alejandro Galaz, who, along with Ventisquero’s chief winemaker Felipe Tosso, produce Tara.

Another shock awaited them underfoot. Instead of the expected granitic soils, in which the vines for most of Chile’s highest-end wines thrive, they encountered limestone. “We understood, in that moment, that we were in the presence of something really special,” says Galaz. They quickly switched growing strategies. Instead of the Carménère and Bordeaux varieties they intended to plant, they cultivated Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other cool-climate varieties.

However, in the second year, the Ventisquiero team had quite the shock: The majority of the vines died unexpectedly, prompting intense soil studies. These yielded yet another surprise—the soil contained a high salt content, nearly ten times the amount that vines can usually handle. Still, the small percentage that survived yielded extraordinary fruit with a uniquely saline quality, which proved they needed to continue with the project.