On August 4, 2023, the Long Valley-Lake County American Viticultural Area (AVA) was born. California’s newest government-approved viticultural area was most decidedly a labor of love, but it ultimately earned AVA status thanks to its unique terroir and, specifically, its distinctive soils that include volcanic rock.
“Everyone in what became the AVA was all-in when we began the application process,” says Joy Merrilees, vice president of Shannon Family of Wines, one of the handful of wineries in the newly minted AVA. “We spent a lot of time collecting data on the weather, soil types, growing degree days, all in an effort to document what makes Long Valley-Lake County different than the other sub-AVAs around it and the larger Lake County AVA that it is set in.”
The area includes five commercial vineyards and three wineries situated along the long, narrow valley floor surrounded and protected by foothills. At the time of filing, Long Valley claimed 149 acres under vine, but the region’s growers have been aggressively scaling up ever since.
“The majority of Lake County features volcanic soils, and then there’s the Big Valley District AVA, with heavier clay soil,” explains Merrilees. “Ours is a mix of silt and gravel, thanks to the Long Valley creek running through the center of it.” Further, she notes, the area is a transverse valley, running east to west, which is surprisingly rare. “There are only eight valleys like that in the U.S.”
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The valley floor of the AVA is elevated, about 1,322 feet above sea level, with foothills that ascend an additional 200-500 feet. Long Valley-Lake County is also windy, which means the vineyards enjoy a natural air-conditioning system during the growing season, locking in fresh, bright flavors even during heat spikes.
“The wind and shorter window of sun means we have more acidity and structure than other typical valley fruit,” Merrilees says. “Getting our AVA approved was so important for us, because it allows us to tell the story of our land through aromas and flavors.”
“Our climate, volcanic soil and dry-farming techniques make for incredibly concentrated flavors and longer hang times,” adds Greg Stratmann, owner of Long Valley’s Stonehouse Cellars, who also comments that the remoteness of the AVA has also helped ensure little to no disease pressure throughout the region.
Clay Shannon, proprietor at Shannon Family of Wines, is equally enthusiastic about the future of the AVA and the quality of the fruit grown. “I have been really impressed by Pinot Noir here,” he says. “We have higher humidity, lower temperatures at night and fewer growing days than other areas of Lake County, with a blend of volcanic, limestone and silt soils unique to North America. That helps create Pinot Noir that is varietally true, while in the surrounding areas, growers really struggle to get that same level of balance and complexity.”
It’s too early to name a flagship grape for Long Valley-Lake County, but for now, Shannon appears to be hanging his hat on Sauvignon Blanc.
“It’s super strong aromatically with fresh fruit and spice,” he says. “It smells like a light Sauvignon Blanc, but don’t be fooled. It has a lot of muscle.”
Quick Facts
Total Size: 7,605 acres
Planted Acreage: 149, with more planned
Most Planted Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Climate: Mediterranean
Number of Wineries: 3
This article originally appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!
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