When was the last time you opened a bottle of Syrah, the red that ranges from spicy and full-bodied to delicate and floral? This wine doesn’t nearly get the credit it deserves.
The reputation of Syrah, one of the most widely planted grapes in the world, took a hit when inexpensive, jammy bottles from Australia flooded the American market in the 1980s and 90s. (There, the grape is often called Shiraz.) But Syrah has always had fans who understand that, in the hands of skilled producers, the nuanced grape can transform into some of the most satisfying wines on the market. It’s actually the top varietal for Wine Enthusiast writer-at-large Matt Kettmann, who reviews wines from California.
“Even though I taste an endless array of stunning Pinot Noirs from across the Central Coast, I still proclaim Syrah to be my favorite red grape,” he recently wrote in Wine Enthusiast’s November print issue.
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Depending on how it’s made, Syrah will express different qualities. New World winemakers often go for brighter fruit, while classic French-style vintners play up the grape’s intensity to produce bold, earthy and savory flavors.
The warming climate is also having an interesting effect on Syrah. “It’s easier to grow a juicy Syrah no matter where you are in the world: Paso, Northern Rhône, Australia and Tuscany,” says Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales. “You’re getting really beautiful renditions of the variety with the essence of its local terroir. Producers are doing a good job in making Syrah really sexy, silky and easy to drink.”
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As many Syrahs age, they mature into spicy, meaty wines. Our esteemed group of tasters kept that in mind in their selection of 11 Syrahs worth trying, which are listed below.
“These wines are quite agreeable and will become even more seductive over time,” Cabrales says. “I firmly believe in ‘drinks well now, drinks well later,’ and many of the Syrahs I’ve been tasting are beautiful, which is reflected in the scores we’ve issued lately.”
Henschke 2008 Hill of Grace Shiraz (Eden Valley)
Because the 2019 vintage was so small, Henschke has offered up a few museum releases of vintages that were similar climactically to ‘19. This is a rare opportunity to taste the evolution of Australia’s most famous single-vineyard wine— and what a sexy one it is. With shades of brick starting at its edges, the heady aromatics of a wine in its second decade of transformation are immediately apparent: spiced macerated cherries and blackberries, mocha, the cracked spines of old books, raw beef and hoisin-glazed mushrooms. It’s silky in the mouth, the tannins still firm and powdery, but softening, curving into the folds of the wine, a spiced meat nuance lingering on the long finish. 99 points. — Christina Pickard
Horsepower 2021 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley (WA))
This wine is a pleasure palace of roadside attractions, beginning with aromas of dusty wild blackberries and pork belly. Ripe black cherries huddle with flavors of rosemary, cedar and the light salt of a water cracker. This is a Tribe called quench—pour with lamb and Donald Byrd records. 98 points. Editor’s Choice. — Michael Alberty
Sleight of Hand 2021 Off He Goes Les Collines Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley (WA))
This wondrous Syrah is the winemaker’s tribute to a departed friend and colleague. It is a fitting tribute filled with blackberry, blueberry fruit leather, roasted pork shoulder and thyme aromas that build and build. Blueberry gelato, wet slate and orange pipe tobacco flavors bump against massive tannins and lemony acidity. Enjoy 2024-2034. 97 points. Cellar Selection. — M.A.
Delas Frères 2019 La Landonne Syrah (Côte Rôtie)
Fresh aromatic layers of mint sit atop crushed red cherries and wild strawberries, with light clove and thyme on the nose. The palate is rich and enticing with black cherries, plums, rhubarb, pomegranate seeds, black olives and freshly picked rosemary leaves. Tremendous texture, structure, and refreshing acidity carry this wine to a robust finish of orange zest and black tea leaves. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — Anna-Christina Cabrales
E. Guigal 2019 Vignes de l’Hospice Syrah (Saint-Joseph)
Aromas of plush dark plums and violets lead to a layer of black olive and freshly picked rosemary leaves. The palate is stylish, accentuating delicious black and purple plums, and blackberries with a lift of acidity and a stony finish. An elegant accompaniment for duck prosciutto. 96 points. — A.C.
Domaine Georges Vernay 2020 Christine Vernay Sainte-Agathe Syrah (Côtes du Rhône)
Generous on the nose, the wine presents juicy aromas of black plum, blackberry and crème de menthe, with a layer of violets and fine granite minerality. The palate is equally luscious and presents a silky texture with flavors of ripe and fresh plum, thyme, and pulverized white peppercorn. Beautiful to enjoy now. 95 points. — A.C.
M. Chapoutier 2020 Petite Ruche Syrah (Crozes-Hermitage)
Delightful aromatics exude brunch vibes as the nose is reminiscent of bramble jam over butter toast with bits of black licorice shaved on top. The palate offers white strawberries, pomegranate juice, rhubarb, blackberry, rose petals, green peppercorn, sweet vanilla and cardamom. Tannins are balanced by impressive acidity, making it difficult to put the glass down. 94 points. — A.C.
Domaine Coursodon 2020 Silice Syrah (Saint-Joseph)
The nose is intensely black fruited and slowly reveals notes of creme de menthe and hints of rocky soil. As black fruits and fine drying tannins coat the palate, its lively acidity provides verve and a lengthy finish. This wine should pair wonderfully with various lamb preparations. 93 points. — A.C.
VML 2021 Lester Vineyard Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains)
The reductive hints of tar and charred meat open toward lilac, elderberrry and blueberry on the layered nose of this bottling, which is built for the cellar. There’s a tarry grip to the palate, where smoked meat, cracked pepper and an underlying dense, dried elderberry fruit tone holds deep into the finish. Expect further greatness to come. Drink now-2041. 96 points. Cellar Selection. — Matt Kettmann
Tua Rita 2019 Per Sempre Syrah Syrah (Toscana)
Deep, almost brooding blackberries, blueberries, black plum, cigar box and dark chocolate on the nose, but still a certain freshness carries through. Lush, dense fruit continues on the palate but notes of top soil and pepper maintain a lively spiciness picked up and elevated by the heat through the finish. The iconic satin tannins of Tua Rita deliver a mouthfeel somewhere between crème brûlée and clouds. 98 points. — Danielle Callegari
John Duval Wines 2021 Entity Shiraz (Barossa)
Plump blood plum and juicy blackberry aromas are underscored with bay leaf and peppery spice. The succulent dark berry fruit takes front and center on the palate, creating a luscious mouthfeel that’s tightened by a gentle tug of spicy tannins and fresh acidity. Classic South Aussie Shiraz sprinkled with Duval style. 94 points. — C.P.
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